Neighborhood Eateries 1
Downtown
Woodward
Reviewed by Michael Goodell
There are many reasons
for dining at Woodward, in the Ames Hotel, downtown
Boston. One would be the tender and heart-warming short-rib tortellini.
Another, the ocean-fresh sautéed rock shrimp, another, the
house-smoked veal pastrami sandwich and yet another, an outstanding
duck confit flatbread with goat cheese and dried cranberries. I know
because I had them all.
Calling it "New England centric", Chef Mark Goldberg's menu creatively links a wide and diverse selection of regional ingredients and brings wonderfully inventive dishes to the table...dish after dish.
They've also put a twist on the dining experience at Woodward by offering a dinner menu with what they refer to as, a "Share" concept. Individual plates await everyone at the table with the intent that as dishes are prepared and delivered (in no particular order), everyone will share the dish. -It's a "Wandering-fork" practitioners’ dream come true!
However, a so's you know note of caution, the "share" dining format (likened to "tapas" style) lends itself to ordering more than you might realize and with that, as was the case with us, a dinner bill that can sail due-North quickly.
Woodward's dessert list was incredibly tempting, we (surprisingly), with great difficulty, resisted the gentle press by our very attentive and informative server.
Finally, and here's the kicker, while we could not stop "ooo-ing" and "aaah-ing" about each dish over and over and over again...the sound in the room, driven by the music volume was deafening. Creating a less than perfect dining experience. Parties shouting across tables to hear one another led me to comment, "Delicious food - Lip reading required." Perhaps the restaurant's management will consider this concern and adjust the volume appropriately.
In spite of that glitch, I know I will return and certainly recommend you try Woodward for yourselves.
Found at the junction of State, Washington, and Court Streets, at the
recently opened Ames Hotel, Woodward serves a full
breakfast, lunch and dinner menu. Reservations for dinner are strongly
advised.
Woodward
1 Court Street
Boston, MA
(617) 979-8200
Market
Reviewed by Michael Goodell
Open just weeks...Market, at the W Hotel Boston, can immediately
take its place at the head table of Boston's best-in-class restaurants.
Guided by the creative vision of internationally renowned chef,
Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Market delivers on its pledge to provide
"...cuisine to suit every taste", with a fresh, imaginative and diverse
dinner menu that is innovative, layered, visually entrancing and
positively; palette pleasing. All that said, Market is a restaurant
where a quickly mystified diner, like myself, mixes easily with the
most sophisticated epicurean. Appetizer favorites included a delectable
Artic Char Sashimi, a Foie Gras Brule and a table pleasing Crisp Clams
w/Basil and Salt. Counted among the plate clearing entrees were the
Stripped Bass w/Nut and Seed Crust, and Grilled Lamb Chops w/Smoke
Chili Glaze. For a side dish, you must consider ordering
the Roasted
Cauliflower w/pistachios or the Truffle Mash Potatoes...Yum! To cap-off
our experience, we were
bowled over with heaven sent desserts such as the Creme Fraiche
Cheesecake w/Glazed Figs and Concord Grapes and the Market's decadent
Warm Chocolate Cake. Located in the heart of Boston's Theater District
at the aformentioned W Hotel, Market's interiors carry through the hip
urban vibe of the hotel with a decor scheme crossing from metal edgy to
Zen reflection. Market is a moderately expensive dining experience.
However, if you can make a reason or excuse, it will be well worth the
visit. Reservations are recommended. Market is also open for breakfast
and lunch.
Market
100 Stuart Street (on the
corner of Stuart and Tremont Ave.)
Boston, MA
(617) 310-6790
South End
Sage
In the space formerly occupied by the recently closed Umbra, this
popular North End eatery has taken up residence in the
eatery-laden South End. Chef Owner Anthony Susi is working the
same magic he displayed on Prince Street with the same imaginative flair
that should appeal to a broad range of tastes. The high ceilinged, not
too large, square dining area has an intimate, almost old-fashioned
appeal with its sheer white curtains covering walls of exposed
brick. Comfortable banquettes line the sides, and an attractive
selection of Italian themed photos decorate the walls. For appetizers we
enjoyed the buffalo mozzarella crostini and the crab tempura. There are lots of
pasta choices, and main courses of varied turf and surf. Full bar and
valet parking is available. Reservations are highly recommended as the
place fills up quickly, not only from its North End fans, but for
its new South End gourmet clientele.
Sage
1395 Washington
St., Boston
(617) 248-8814
Gaslight Brasserie du Coin
This is another of the successful restaurants under the umbrella of the
Aquitaine group of restaurants, and a high-profile brasserie in the
burgeoning South End enclave of restaurants. In an old world setting,
it's big, bustling and boasts casual elegance. It's
open seven days a week for lunch, dinner and weekend brunches. And it's
big plus: plenty of free parking.
Gaslight Brasserie du Coin
560 Harrison Ave,
Boston
(617) 422-0224
Ginger Park (formerly Banq)
NYC expat chef Patricia Yeo has
brought her Southeast Asian street food to the South End at Ginger
Park, which takes over the space formerly occupied by Banq to offer a
midpriced menu of small plates accompanied by wine and sake; the
expansive, elegant setting has stayed the same – including the
undulating wood ceiling sculpture – except for the bar, where the back
wall has been removed to offer a view of the bustling cityscape.
Ginger Park
1375 Washington
St, Boston
617-451-0077
Beehive
A joint partnership of Bob the Chef's Darryl Settles and Pho
Republique's Jack Bardy, this exciting new restaurant/nightclub
in the Boston Center of the Arts on Tremont Street is fun and
funky.The large space (6500 square feet) takes its cue from
an early Parisian arts club, where the likes of Matisse and
Chagall spent many hours. There's a bar and limited seating
on the upper level, and a much larger space down the wide staircase
that has another bar and a stage for the nightly sounds of jazz (courtesy of Berklee College of Music) that will be featured along with
the Mediterranean-style menu supervised by chef Adam Halberg.
Beehive, 541 Tremont St., Boston
(617) 423-0069
Rocca Kitchen and Bar
There doesn't seem to be any end to
the plethora of new eateries in the South End. So many choices.
Becoming one of the places "to be seen" is Michela Larson's new venture,
Rocca. Inspired by the Ligurian region of Italy, the menu boasts
such culinary creations as pesto Genovese, slate-cooked fish, veal
medallions wild mushroom toasts and pansotti with walnut sauce.
What gives them the edge in the area is the free parking behind
the restaurant on Harrison avenue that leads right into the modern,
curved glass cocktail lounge and bar. In nice weather, there are tables
outdoors on the patio, and you can enjoy service there as well as
inside in the air conditioned bar. The main dining room is upstairs,
and serves some elegant Italian style cuisine. You'll have more fun
getting your Italian food fix downstairs.
Rocca
500 Harrison Ave, Boston
(617) 451-5151
Pops
It looks like 'Pops" has
finally broken the jinx. This tiny South End space didn't
make it with former bistros Truc, and Perdix, but seems to have finally
found the right formula for success with chef Felino Samson, who has
come up with a combination of elegantly prepared foods at affordable
prices -- entrees are $20 and under. The narrow space has been
transformed into a handsome art deco dining area, cozy yet swank
with its black and white motif. Hand-carved etched glass divides the bar
eating area from the busy staff working in the kitchen. Choices range from
true comfort foods (giant Rhode Island "stuffies" flavorful burgers,
chicken fricassee), to elegantly prepared crispy skate wings with
caper sauce and sauteed spinach, and also include tasty short ribs over creamy garlic
mashed potatoes and jalapeno breaded chicken wings with cucumber
yogurt sauce wrapped in a banana leaf. Open for lunch and
dinner, and right now, just wine and beer are available, but a full liquor license is
expected shortly. Pops is certainly a welcome addition to the South End restaurant scene.
Pops
365 Tremont St, Boston
(617) 695-1250
Picco
Atelier 505, the South End's newest luxury condo, can boast a new eatery now
that talented pastry chef Rick Katz (of Biba, Bentenwood Cafe and Legal Seafoods
fame) has decided to go it on his own with a unique concept of pizza and
ice cream. Ordinarily you don't think of the two together, but apparently
Rick felt there was a need for something a little different in the restaurant-choked
South End, and his small, casual establishment will offer sandwiches, salads,
and of course all sorts of gourmet pizza and ice cream treats. A fairly extensive
wine bar will also add to the chummy atmosphere It's bound to find an audience
not only with the tenants in the posh condo, but also from the newly-expanded
Boston Center for the Arts and its two theatres right next door. Go Get 'em
Rick!
Picco
513 Tremont st, Boston
(617) 927-0066
Union Bar and Grill
And still they come -- more new restaurants cropping up along the renovated
Washington Street boulevard in the South End. The latest, a venture of accomplished
restaurateurs Jeff Gates, Seth Woods and Matt Burns (Aquitaine, Armani, Metropolis,
Mistral) a team that has the experience and know-how to make it work. The
Peter Neimitz room decor is ultra chic, catering to the hip crowd that seems
to be comfortable in this very happening-now set. A busy bar scene greets
you when you enter, and the dining area is welcoming with black leather banquettes
and antique wood beams, and long horizontal mirrors to check out the room
in between courses. For starters you're served a mini skillet of hot corn
bread (gratis), and a wide array of appetizers from which to choose, smoked
bluefish, clam chowder, mussels. Along with the entree items -- seared crusted
tuna, halibut, rack of lamb, pork -- it's all prepared well. If you're not
that hungry, you can opt for a burger ($12) or a Reuben ($14) with overflowing
crisp french fries. Service is exceptional. They have a first-class, knowledgeable
wait staff who make sure you're content. There's also an extensive wine list
and valet parking. All combine to make this newest bistro a real contender
in the burgeoning South End dining scene.
Union Bar and Grill
1357 Washington Street, Boston
617) 423-0555
Club Cafe
A long-time hang-out for Boston's hip gay crowd, this restaurant keeps pace
with the competing onslaught of new bistros. But what they offer, aside from
a fairly sophisticated menu, is entertainment as well. That menu ranges from
rack of lamb with a tomato-sage bernaise to grilled halibut with pasta pockets
of shrimp and chevril. It's a classy menu and is one of the few bistros in
the city that not only offers live entertainment with your dining experience,
but you can be served late. They 're open until 1 a.m. And if you're in the
mood for just a snack, the burgers and steak tips are more than just fine.
Club Cafe
209 Columbus Ave, Boston
(617) 536-0966
B & G Oysters, LTD
Chalk up another entry into the South End restaurant sweepstakes. Is there
room for yet another fine dining experience? I guess so. For in less than
2 months, this former French bistro has been transformed into a shiny modern
space-- tiny, but with with its textured walls and marble bar, it is a most
inviting space. Not surprisingly, they feature an impressive assortment of
fresh oysters (I counted 11 varieties), and seafood selections include New
England comfort foods, like clam chowder and lobster bisque. The fried Ipswich
clams were light and tender, there's scrod and other fish delights as well.
There's an extensive wine list, and some different choices for beer. Barbara
Lynch and her chef/manager Garret Harker have come up with a nice niche to
give variety to the bevy of eating options available in the city's South
End neighborhood. They've even transformed the storefront across the street
into another specialty restaurant called "The Butcher Shop." It's a charcuterie,
where you can not only pick up fresh meats, but dine on a limited menu of
panini, salads and other gourmet delicacies, including some luscious sweets.
Congratulations to B & G for pushing the envelope when it comes to dining.
B & G Oysters
550 Tremont St., Boston
(617) 423-3533
Hamersley's Bistro
Now well-ensconced in a former piano factory at the corner of Clarendon and
Tremont streets in the South End, Boston-born Gordon Hammersley and his English
wife Fiona have created a stalwart dining establishment that has become a
favorite of some of the city's most urbane diners. Gordon's grilled mushroom
and garlic sandwich will have you craving just one more bite. The chicken
with garlic, lemon, and parsley seems to have won the public's choice in
the most popular category. His now-famous lemon custard souffle is usually
gone unless you're an early diner, but his homemade ice cream desserts are
not too tough to take either. (Try the upside-down vanilla cone with hot
fudge and hazelnut praline. Wow!) Hammersley's is a "make you feel at
home" kind of spot and, now into it's 11th year, it still remains on
the upper echelon of the Hub's top dining destinations.
Hammersley's Bistro
(617) 423-2700
Rouge
New Orleans meets New England in the newest boite masterminded by Tremont 647's
Andy and Gretchen Husbands, who along with Peter White have come up with
the newest eatery in the South End. Chef Sal Fristensky trained in New Orleans
and he and Husbands have come up with distinctly Southern-inspired American
cuisine that won't put a crimp in your pocketbook (appetizers start at $6,
and all entrees are under $21). Cajun-inspired sweet potato and smoke chile
soup and succulent barbecued shrimp or oysters served in a mini skillet with
an amazing aromatic herbal seafood broth will start you off in fine fettle.
Entrees offer a varied selection, including braised veal cheeks with stone
ground grits and pecan-crusted catfish. Fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits
and collard greens, black eye pea and ham hock gravy will make you feel you're
smack dab in the center of N'awlins. Where else does the full bar menu include
mint juleps and more varieties of bourbon than you'll find in Kentucky! As
you enter this small bistro, (the former South End Grill) there's an electricity
in the air, the tiny bar is busy and hopping. In the small (60 seats) dining
area, the color red gives off a warm comfortable glow. Rouge is a hit! A
happy, happening place. There's valet parking, but they don't take reservations,
so be prepared to mingle in the bar with some of the friendly neighborhood
folks.
Rouge
480A Columbus Ave, Boston
(617) 867-0600
Laurel
Talented Russ and Sherry Berger saw a need and decided to fill it. "If
you build it they will come" seems to be what is happening at the former "Blue
Wave" restaurant on Berkeley at the corner of Columbus on the fringe of
Boston's South End, which certainly has its fill of fine dining. But there
is definitely a difference here. The high cost of gourmet dining has been discounted
-- they call it "Frugal Nights" -- Monday-Thursday, the entrees go
for ten dollars, no matter what the price reads on the menu. And a varied menu
it is. The house-cured salmon pastrami served with buckwheat pancakes and creme
fraiche started us off in fine faux "caviar" fashion. Golden trout
served with garlic mashed potatoes was more than tasty, the tuna fillet with
toasted couscous and pickled ginger was tender and flavorful, and grilled strip
steak was cooked to perfection. Everyone loves a bargain, especially one that
hits high marks on food, service and ambiance. This is a gourmet find. Three
cheers for Laurel . . . frugal dining has never tasted so good!
Laurel
142 Berkeley Street, Boston
(617) 424-6711
The Delux Cafe has been a well-kept
secret by South End residents, but I had occasion to give it a try
this week, and it's not only fun and filled with kitsch, but the food
was outstanding. Small, as a neighborhood joint should be, its long
and narrow walls are filled with memorabilia (Elvis Presley mementos,
Xmas tree, tinsel decorating the bar, a lighted Santa, old-fashioned
posters, record album covers, pictures, and even a nude painting),
plus a legit display of black and white photos by a local artist. How's
that for a kitsch atmosphere! Within this framework, the dozen or so
Formica tables are filled regularly by those who know they are going
to get good food at good prices. (The highest priced entree was $9.95.)
Chef Tanya Holland worked in New York and apprenticed at Hammersley's
and creates culinary magic in the tiny kitchen. There are daily specials
and a limited menu. We started with hummus, roasted garlic, and flatbread
that set the stage for what turned out to be an exceptional dining
experience. The herbed shrimp salad sandwich on lavash bread was scrumptious,
and from the Daily Special list, the penne with spinach and roasted
walnuts was ample and tasty. For dessert, we sampled authentic mango
sherbet with chunks of mango topped with raspberries and two delicious
sugar cookies. At that point, I didn't care that they served no coffee;
I was in gustatory heaven. The menu changes every six weeks. The neighborhood
crowd may not be happy that I'm spreading the word, but if you're looking
for exceptionally prepared food and funky atmosphere, Delux is a culinary
delight. And Tanya, you can cook for me any day. Open every day but
Sunday from 5:30 -11 p.m,; the bar's open until one.
Delux Cafe
100 Chandler St. (Corner of Clarendon), Boston
(617) 338- 5258
Aquitaine is spreading its
wings. It's now-well-established bistro in the South End on Tremont
near Clarendon has branched out into the suburbs and has become quite
popular with the Chestnut Hill crowd, in its bistro number two "Aquitaine
Bis," smack dab in the shopping plaza on Route 9. The small space has
the feel of an authentic French bistro. From traditional onion soup
to Chacoute, the Parisian style delicacies -- different ones are featured
daily -- are excellent, plus there's a fairly extensive wine menu.
The decor is warm and welcoming. I've been to both places, and have
had a pleasant dining experience at both. Depending on your preferred
location, South End or Chestnut Hill, you'll definitely feel like you're
in Paris, at least for an hour or two. Open for lunch and dinner.
Aquitaine, 569 Tremont St., Boston (617) 424-8577
Aquitaine, 11 Boylston St., Chestnut Hill, (617) 734-8400
647 Tremont, the newest restaurant
to appear along Tremont Street's "restaurant row" in the
South End, has the former chef of the popular East Coast Grill adding
his special touch to this very atmospheric dining spot. Prices for
dinner average $15 to $25 per entree.
647 Tremont
647 Tremont St., Boston
(617) 266-4600
Stella
Right across from Blackstone Park on Washington St., Stella is a happening place. With high ceilings, taupe walls and large picture windows, it's become a popular, trendy hangout for the hip crowd. Owners Evan and Candice Deluly honed their respective skills at the popular Bistro 5 in Medford and did well at Torch on Charles Street, at the foot of Beacon Hill.
With executive chef Joseph Casssenelli (Mistral, Teatro) at the helm, the Italian-style
items on the menu are presented attractively, they are very tasty, and
there's enough variety to please the palate. The steamed mussels in white
wine and olive oil is a great starter -- make sure you have enough of their garlic
bread to sop up the broth. Pastas come in full and half sizes. You can't miss
with either the tagliatellle, with its wonderful Bolognese sauce, or the
orecchiette in lemony creme fraiche. Their thin-crusted "quattro funghi" pizza
is a mushroom lover's delight. There's a wide choice of entrees -- fish, veal
or pork -- and the wine list is pretty extensive. The bar right next to the corner
entrance gets very busy and noisy. It's not your candlelit romantic spot, but
rather more of a party atmosphere. Everyone's happy and having a
good time, including the waitstaff, who are knowledgeable and seem to really want
to please. One downside: you have to search out parking spots since there
is no valet parking.
Stella
1525 Washington St., Boston
(617) 247-7747
Ladder District
Bina Osteria
For a most unusual dining experience -- food, decor, and service, you'd
have to go far to beat one of the newest eateries in Boston. Bina
Osteria is not your ordinary Italian concept restaurant. The
experience and gutsy imagination of the owners, Babak and Azita, the
Iranian brother sister team of Lala Rokh and Bin 26 is evident as
soon as you enter the establishment at the corner of Washington and
Avery Streets (a few doors from the Boston Opera House and across the
street from the stylish new Ritz).
Hospitality starts as soon you enter the swank, inviting architect-designed black and white interior: Acoustic friendly, umbrella-like ceiling, an orange-hued welcoming lounge area, Italian terrazzo floor, sleek bar. The most unusal menu created by master chef Brian Konefal (with an able assist from his talented pastry chef wife Paola) includes such creative dishes as spaghetti ala carbonara (house made pancetta, slow cooked hen egg and pecorino), house-made ricotta, lobster with lardo (delicious) and a rich chicken marsala accompanied by a black trumpet mushroom, cipollini puree, topped with translucent skin ressembling a piece of glass). The presentation of all the dishes was superb! Make sure you take time to browse the upscale Italian market "Bina Alimentari" -- fresh burrata, olive oil, pastas, chocolate, cheese, homeade gelati, a wide choice s of wines, and other gastronomic delights.
Once the word gets out, this newest entry in the Boston
restaurant scene is bound to find a following...a true adventure in
dining right in the heart of the city. Open daily for lunch and
dinner, brunch on weekends, and discounted parking available.
Bina Osteria
571 Washington St, Boston
(617) 956-0888
blu is not that easy to find, but
if you enter the building at 4 Avery and take the elevator to the fourth
floor, you're there. It's adjacent to the posh L.A. Sports club, and
the team of Jody Adams and Michela Larson have done it again. (Rialto
and Red Clay were theirs as well). Once inside the wraparound window
treatment offers a stunning view of the revitalized Washington St.
area. A sleek modern bar and cafeteria take care of the gym folks who
serve themselves in the casual cafe area but the formal dining area
is "blu at its best." The elegant space and view offer a
perfect for the new American cuisine that makes for a true dining experience.
Adams and Larson know how to run a restaurant, and this their newest
is off and running quite nicely, thank you.
blu
4 Avery Street, Boston
(617-375-8550)
Limbo offers Mediterranean-inspired
cuisine in a supper club setting. The popular multi-level restaurant
/lounge (music from jazz to Latin is featured nightly) seems to be
one of the spots to see and be seen. Contemporary dishes include salmon
tatar, sauteed Maine crab cakes, grilled lamb and beef short ribs with
cotechnino sausage, as well as pastas, salads and soup. Open for lunch
and dinner. Full bar. A hip spot for those seeking entertainment as
well as fine dining.
Limbo
49 Temple Place, Boston
617-338-0280
Mantra
Guest Reviewer: Chef Argold, Brookline
Arriving at the front door to Mantra is not the highlight of the evening. The
doorman could be warmer and more receptive and it's not clear how one enters
this new and wonderful restaurant, but once inside, things become much better.
Management has focused on every detail to make your visit enjoyable and they've
done a remarkable job. What was Boston's historic Old Colony Trust Company
has become a very comfortable, elegant dining room that is quite spacious.
The staff is young, appropriately attentive and friendly. The menu just changed
for spring dining and is very interesting. Mantra welcomes you with those little
delicious creations of the Chef that were superb. The bread-basket that was
passed had warm wheat rolls, pecan-fruit bread, potato bread and nan, an Indian
flatbread that was warm and delicious with the whipped butter and pesto-cilantro
spread they provide. Milady and I began with the Peekytoe Crab Salad and Littleneck
Clams and the Seared Scallops w/Roasted Tomato & Young Leeks. Sound good?
Unbelievably delicious. We followed with entrees of Grilled Spring Lamb Loin
and Seafood Moily, a fine type of bouillabaisse. Both superbo! Dessert was
Pineapple Mousse Shortcake and a Passion Fruit Tart w/Fenugreek Ice Cream.
Marvelous! The wine choices are excellent and the prices are fair for the way
you're treated. Very special. Clearly one of Boston's very best dining experiences.
Oh, yes. One must visit the restrooms. You're in for a surprise!
Mantra
52 Temple Place, Boston
617 542 8111
28 Degrees
Walk into this trendy newest edition to the South End's eatery scene, (the name
stems from a martini's perfect chilling temperature) -- and you'd think you're
in a Manhattan boite. Dimly lit, with soft cool sounds provided by a live DJ,
the sleek modern black and white decor is just plain sexy. The menu follows
suit with titles like "raw", "cool" and "hot." Chef Jeremy Sewall, formerly
of Great Bay, has come up with the culinary creations -- most designed for
sharing, tapas style--to go along with the well stocked bar choices. The yellow
fin tuna tartare served with crisp puffed crackers was delicious. The serving
of vegetable tempura was ample and tasty dipped in the accompanying mustard
sauce.. The braised short ribs served over a bed of garlicky mashed potatoes
was outstanding. Other choices: Maine crab "parfait" with avocado and mango,
brick-oven pizzas, steamed mussels, crispy calamari. Stay for the surprise
entertainment, from fashion shows to solo performers. Looks like this corner
of Appleton and Tremont has finally got the temperature right, stirred or shaken,
it's a hit!.
28 Degrees
One Appleton St, Boston
(617) 728-0728
Max & Dylan's Kitchen and Bar
The newest addition to the
Downtown Crossing area is at 15 West St, the former West Street Grill.
It's a great late night spot (they're open until1 a.m.) serving upscale American
bar food with sleek environs that incorporate two bars – upstairs
and down – TVs, hardwood floors and glowing faux votives on the
table. They offer a wide variety of reasonably-priced choices --.
the very extensive menu features soups, salads, sliders (the mini kobe sliders
were exceptional), and macaroni and chees variations, and you have to try their
homemade potato chips served with warm roquefort sauce. Incidentally,
the name comes from the sons of the owners, who also operate Scollay
Square and Tavern on the Water. It's another welcome addition to he
constantly-changing Downtown Crossing area.
15 West St., 617-423-3600
Financial District
Oceanaire
The Financial District’s former U.S. Trust Bank provides a grand
setting (columns, vaulted ceilings, marble accents) for Oceanaire
Seafood Room, a link in the fancy Minnesota-based seafood chain devoted
to fresh fish; tall palms, nickel accents and cherry paneling make it
feel more like a steakhouse than a fish house, save for the sweeping
raw bar.
Oceanaire Seafood Room
40 Court St. Boston
617-742-2277
Back Bay
L'Espalier now open at the Mandarin Oriental in the Back Bay
Chef Frank McClelland’s renowned L’Espalier,
long situated in a Back Bay townhouse is now in its new home on the
second floor of the
Mandarin Oriental. Also opening at the new Mandarin Hotel will be a
second
Boston location for Sel de la Terre.
Sasso
The owners of Lucca, one of my favorite North End restaurants, have
moved their kitchen magic to the Back Bay (the former Black Fin Chop
House locale on Huntington Ave). Chef David Ross, while concentrating
on northern Italian cuisine at Lucca, has spread his wings a bit in the
new location and the menu reflects his varied choices.The high open
space, its two story windows and marble staircase, serves as a welcome
setting for those craving a variety of creative and tasty Italian
fare." Buono fortuna" to the Williams brothers, the other Ted Kennedy,
and of course master chef David Ross.
Sasso
116 Huntington Ave, Boston
617 247 2400
Bin 26 Enoteca
With their popular Persian restaurant, Lala Rokh (around the
corner on Mt. Vernon Street) a big success, brother and sister Babbak
Bina and Azita
Bina-Seibel seem to have a deft magic touch when it comes to
restaurants. Their current endeavor is Bin 26 Enoteca, a low-key contemporary wine bar and restaurant that's building a major
neighborhood following in the Beacon Hill area in the space formerly
occupied
by Torch restaurant.
There are many "Enotekas" throughout Italy, where
one is served simple food to accompany wine. "Bin",
followed
by a number, is the physical location where the bottle is located in
the wine cellar. In this case it's 26 Charles St. With some 250 wines (50-75 by the glass alone) you tend to forget that the
food, whether snacks at the popular bar in the front of the
restaurant or full course meals, is what this brother and sister act
excel at. The decor is clubby, comfortable, and highly original. They've
cornered the cork market. They cover the walls and the ceiling. Wine
bottles are everywhere -- even the bathrooms have wine bottles hanging from the ceiling.
Chef Azita certainly knows her way around the kitchen. Among the choice appetizer selections we loved the chicken pate, and mozzarella wrapped and roasted in crispy Speck. For main courses the linguine sauteed with sea scallops and shrimp garlic and white wine was tasty and delicious. Ditto for the hanger steak served
with spinach and a peppercorn cream sauce. Leave room for desserts. We tried a superior molten chocolate cake, which was devoured, as was the strawberry Millefeuille with crackling lace cookies covering fresh strawberries and mascarpone cream. Bin 26 is open from lunch straight through dinner. The bar is always busy.
This is not your ordinary neighborhood hangout, and although it's taken
me a while to get there, you can be sure, I'll be back on a regular basis.
Valet parking available..
Bin 26 Enoteca
26 Charles St., Boston
(617) 729-5511
Smith and Wollensky
Just
what Boston needs -- another high-priced steak house! But if anyone
is up to the challenge, this national chain has proven they've got
the smarts to make it happen. For openers, they have transformed
the former Park Plaza Castle (diagonally across the street from the
Park Plaza Hotel) into a four-story eating emporium that has an old-world
private club feel to it. Mega-bucks have gone into creating four
distinct and attractive eating areas. The decor is definitely old-world
Boston, with the prime spots on the first and second levels. Name
your cut of steak and it's on the menu…prime rib, sirloin,
New York cut. The sides are all a la carte and pricey, and if meat
is not your bag, there's lobster, shrimp and oysters -- name your
style and they've got it. The extensive menu is presented in glass
frames and the wait staff is friendly and professional. It's worth
a trip just to see what an amazing transformation has occurred in
this cavernous1891 armory -- you'd never recognize it. The entrance
is now on Arlington Street, and there is valet parking. Time will
tell if another swanky steak house (with a Ruth's Chris eatery about
to open in the former Maison Robert digs in Old City Hall on School
Street) can keep up with the regulars, or make its mark by setting
the bar even higher.
Smith & Wollensky
101 Arlington St, Boston
(617) 423-1112
Legal Sea Foods
When visitors come to Boston, the first place that comes to mind for shopping
is Filene's Basement, and when they are ready to dine at a traditionally
Boston restaurant, Legal Sea Foods is where they want to go. It's become
nationally famous for the wide choice of fresh seafood available at their
many locations. Fish is their mainstay - over 30 varieties are served daily,
your choice: boiled, baked, broiled, fried, steamed. There are four sites
in the city, others north (Logan Airport), west and south of Boston. After
40 years in business, the Berkowitz family is spreading their wings -- New
York, Washington, and Florida -- and their reputation precedes them. Their
New England clam chowder is the choice of presidents. It has been served
at four presidential inaugurations. Be prepared to wait, as they take no
reservations, but the wait is worth it. When it comes to fresh fish in so
many varieties, the tourists flock for the fish, as do the locals, who despite
the bevy of new restaurants in the area, love Legal's.
Now through November: "The Oyster Experience" to
highlight the benefits of eating oysters. At least six species will be available
for sampling. For more information, visit legalseafoods.com.
Legal Sea Foods
26 Park Square, Boston, (617) 426-4444
Copley Place, Huntington Ave., (617) 266-7775
Prudential Center, Boylston St., (617) 266- 6800
255 State St, Boston, (617) 227-3115
Logan Airport, Terminals A, B & C, (617) 568-2800
Stephanie's on Newbury Street
Reviewed by Rene - "Boston's Gal About Town"
A sumptuous haven with a buzzing bar and bustling dining room sits in the heart
of Newbury Street, and it's just what Boston has been crying for. Stephanie's
is an uplifting New York-style, sophisticated bistro that mixes well with the
young professionals and the over 50 crowd. Where else can you get such an eclectic
assortment of appetizers as Dora's matzo ball chicken soup, shrimp risotto
fritters, or smoked salmon with potato pancakes? Their wonderful salads and
sandwiches include fresh tuna nicoise, grilled tenderloin salad and a most
unusual Cobb salad. Other choices: cedar plank salmon, double-thick, char-grilled
pork chop, old fashioned meat loaf, and southern fried chicken. Everything
I have tried -- and I have eaten up and down this menu -- is truly mouth-watering.
It's dynamite presentation very reasonably priced, with nice, congenial servers
and most attentive managers -- Matt and John. And remember, spring is around
the corner, and their sidewalk bistro is very popular. Make your reservations
early.
Lunch is served starting at 11:30 a.m. and dinner from 5:30 -10:30 p.m. This
one is hard to beat.
Stephanie's
190 Newbury Street, Boston
(617) 236-0990
Jasper White's Summer Shack
One of the Hub's master food gurus has latched on to a winner. His reputation
with lobster (he's written a book on the subject) and other sea food items
as well, has come up with a no-frills atmosphere where the emphasis is strictly
on the food. And he knows food. Not as large as his first Shack at Fresh
Pond in Cambridge, his newest entry in Boston (the former Cheri Movie House)
next door to a bowling alley (King's) is a tad smaller and more rustic with
patrons actually ordering and serving cafeteria-style. Still there's a chic
air to the place and you can't go wrong with White's trademarked pan-roasted
lobster. A wide variety of seafood is offered, along with some retro favorites
like corn dogs and meatloaf. White's celebrity status has added a third restaurant
with the White imprimatur, the Mohegan Sun Casino in Connecticut. In the
Boston digs, you'll have a chance to chat with some Boston Brahmins who also
seem to enjoy the unique delights of White's lobster and other marine creatures
in a no-frills atmosphere.
Jasper White's Summer Shack
50 Dalton St., Boston
(617) 867-9955