Neighborhood Eateries 2
North End
Bricco
From the time they first showed their mettle with Galleria Italiano to a brief
stint in the South End, Rita D'Angelo and Marisa Locco have always showed
an exciting, creative flair for authentic Italian-style food. They have hit
a home run with their North End bistro Bricco. It's chic and comfortable
-- D'Angelo's front-of-the- house charm and Locco's kitchen savvy are a perfect
match. Try the milk-fed veal chop with candy beets and truffle popcorn, or
quail stuffed with speck and apricot. Home-made pasta Bolognese is perfection
and you'll savor their special bread pudding. Now that Bricco is going full
tilt, the two ladies have set their sights on Boston's financial district
(the former Il Panino) where Umbria Ristorante is
set to make its mark with ingredients flown direct from one of the largest
organic farms in Umbria. They've got five floors to have fun with -- private
dining areas, a lounge and bar area and a state-of-the-art bi-level nightclub
that will stay open til 2 a.m. on weekends. Keep your eye on these gals…they're
on a roll!
Bricco
241 Hanover St., Boston
(617) 248-6800
Umbria Ristorante
258 Franklin St., Boston
(617) 338-1000
Anthem
Now that the Fleet Center area is going through a resurgence, a new hotel (The
Onyx), new office space, and believe it or not, another Au Bon Pain, it's
nice to see this new large space on Portland Street open to give us a quality
restaurant in the neighborhood, serving American comfort food with panache.
Chef Robert Fatham has come up with some creative dishes -- here's a sampling
of appetizers: Spinach and artichoke fondue (excellent), chickadee chick
Chinese chicken (sweet and sour marinated wings), or a pu pu platter of fried
tuna maki, braised pork ribs, tempura shrimp, or tuna tartar. The menu also
offers a variety of soups,salads, and sandwiches. We particularly liked the
southern fried salad (fried chicken tenders, pecans, baby spinach) and the
iceberg "wedgie" salad (blue cheese dressing, bacon bits, marinated tomato
and hard cooked egg.) For entrees, we recommend the mighty meat loaf, or
the Sichuan peppercorn crusted seared tuna .The pork shank was tasty, and
we also enjoyed the hanger steak with au gratin potatoes spiked with Great
Hill blue cheese. Anthem is certainly a classy addition to the North Station
area.
Anthem
138 Portland St., Boston
(617) 523-8383
Waterfront
Durgin Park Market Dining Room
Guest Reviewer: Chef Argold, Brookline
It's really a "Golden Oldie." After an absence, on my part, of too
many years, Durgin Park is still there in historic Faneuil Hall Market housed
in a building whose bricks were ballast in the holds of inter-continental sailing
ships. It hasn't changed much. Still very satisfying with generous portions
of traditional local fare, reasonably priced, and all quite good. The red and
white gingham table cloths are still there and the historic decor appears intact,
but the waitresses seem nicer and kinder, though still proficient and strong
under those heavy trays. The shrimp appetizers and Greek salads were fresh
and delicious. the lobsters were wonderful and my friend's end-cut of Roast
Prime Rib of Beef was to gaze at in awe. It had to be 2 inches thick and over
a foot long with the bone in. Tradition reigns at Durgin Park (established
in 1827) with familiar favorites -- Yankee pot roast, Indian pudding and hot
apple pan dowdy. The coffee Jello dessert under a mountain of whipped cream
and luscious Strawberry Shortcake is still hard to beat! Fun dining. Really
worth a try . . . bring the gang!
Durgin Park Market Dining Room
340 Faneuil Hall, Boston
(617) 227-2038
Sel de la Terre
Around the corner from Legal Sea Foods and across the way from the Aquarium
restaurant sits this unobtrusive restaurant that provides serious cuisine
for the discriminating diner. Chef Geoff Gardner serves up French country-style
cuisine with a flair and with attention to detail that tells you this is
not your ordinary dining establishment. It was a difficult choice right from
the beginning as we alternated dipping two kinds of bread into the olive
oil laced with roasted shallots and garlic, and then again with the exquisite
red bean dip. An appetizer of sauteed scallops in puff pastry kept the taste
sensations going. The salad of Boston lettuce and red cabbage with golden
raisins, roasted peanuts, and grapefruit curry provided some delicious breathing
room. And the entrees -- a delicious bouillabaisse, a barbecued salmon with
buckwheat noodles, a beef rib-eye. Be still my heart. Whether it's Frank
McClelland's influence (he has a financial stake in this eatery) or the expertise
exerted by Monsieur Gardner, it makes no difference. They have hit the mark
right on. This is the "salt of the earth." Valet or discounted parking
is available at the Aquarium Garage.
Sel De La Terre
255 State St, Boston
(617) 720-1300
Beacon Hill
Pierrot
This tiny boite at the lower end of Beacon Hill on Cambridge Street (opposite
the giant MGH complex) offers one a chance to enjoy authentic French cuisine
at reasonable prices. Open for lunch and dinner (dinner only on Saturday
and closed Sunday), we sampled the luncheon menu and are pleased to report
... tres magnifique. Crispy and crunchy French bread with salted butter balls
set the stage for our culinary French excursion, followed by traditional
onion soup, a light, delicious broth topped with a light layer of toasted
cheese. Next came mussels in white wine sauce -- hearty and flavorful. The
salad course, romaine with roquefort and crushed walnuts, was light and fresh,
and quite satisfactory. On the downside, another traditional French dish,
the beef Bourguignon, either was not cooked enough or too much, and I found
it tough despite the nice wine flavor.We perked up with dessert -- creme
brulee, a rich burnt sugar topping over a light creamy interior -- and the
rich chocolate mousse's dark melt-in-your-mouth chocolate was perfection.
Wine and beer are available, but parking is minimal. Best bet is to park
at the new Yawkey garage a block away, or at one of the MGH garages nearby.
The atmosphere is very French -- Pierrot clown pictures dot the persimmon-colored
walls, and the strains of haunting Edith Piaf songs add to the authentic
French flavor of the Hub's newest entry into true French cuisine. Vive le
Paris!
Pierrot Bistro
272 Cambridge St, Boston
(617) 725-8855
West Roxbury
West On Centre
West Roxbury is moving up on the gourmet scale. The "Eat, Drink, Laugh" Restaurant
Group's newest entry in the area (they also run such diverse eating establishments
as "The Blarney Stone" in Dorchester, The Paramount on Charles St., Peking
Tom's at Downtown Crossing and the 21st Amendment on Beacon Hill) was indeed
a surprise. But these guys seem to have a knack for creating unique and diverse
eating establishments that offer quality, quantity and fair prices. This newest
edition on Centre Street in West Roxbury is a well-appointed, cozy 80-seat
restaurant with an open kitchen, classic mahogany bar and relaxing lounge area.
More than just a neighborhood haunt, its well-prepared food and generous drinks
have brought in folks from other suburbs as well. The menu, although not huge,
offers enough variety to please any palate. We started with freshly-steamed
mussels and an ample-portioned shrimp cocktail. You can choose from 3 or 4
salads that offer large portions. I thoroughly enjoyed my thick porkchop served
with pecan sweet potatoes, garlicky green beans, and crispy onions. You won't
go wrong with the the herb-roasted chicken served with creamed spinach and
garlic mashed potatoes, and you won't find a better tasting steak than the
sirloin club. The top price for any of the entrees is $20. With this family
friendly eatery, it looks like this growing restaurant group has latched on
to another winner.
West on Centre
1732 Centre St., West Roxbury
(617) 323-4199
Jamaica Plain
Cafe D Global Kitchen
In the reincarnation of his former Jamaica Plain eatery, "Arbor",
talented owner/chef Doug Organ has already won the kudos of the JP
neighborhood with his more casual, less-expensive offerings. Gourmet
burgers (beef or tuna), a variety of pastas, and a three-course
prix fixe menu (until 7 p.m.) is packing the place. The quality has not
been compromised, and the cuisine is still attractive and
tasty enough to satisfy the most discriminating diner. The
medjool date and orange salad tossed in a olive oil lemon juice
and mint dressing will start you off in fine fashion. Daily
specials are listed on a blackboard and we ordered the whole trout in a
sweet hot and sour mustard sauce. It was was clean-your-plate
delicious. Ditto the roasted native pollock. A carryover from
Arbor days is the Moroccan spiced lamb that still seems to be the
diners' favorite. Leave room for the limited dessert menu. Our choice:
rice pudding brulee. The tiny spot (about 15 tables) takes no
reservations, and there is no full bar, but the wine list
offers affordable choices. Parking available in the rear.
Cafe D Global Kitchen
711 Center St, Jamaica Plain
(617) 522-9500
