Frank Avruch: Boston's Man About Town

 

Greater Boston Restaurants 1

Cambridge/Somerville

Rialto
Just recently renovated is Jody Adam's Rialto. Located in the Charles Hotel, the menu now takes on a new Italian identity... hearty fare like tomato and farro lasagna, braised pork cheeks with heirloom polenta, and spaghetti with lobster. High priestess Adams is wisely keeping some of favorite classic dishes on the menu, such as the classic slow-roasted duck. Now on her own, Adams is giving her newest venture her own personal vision, not only on the dishes, but in the new decor. Good luck, Jody!
Rialto
1 Bennett St, Cambridge
(617) 661-5050

Sunday Brunch at Legal Sea Foods, Charles Hotel Cambridge
You wouldn't ordinarily think "brunch" at a seafood emporium, but I had a chance to check it out this past Sunday and it's a gastronomically unique experience. Don't tell too many people, because it's still somewhat of a secret ...they're trying it out, and if it goes, they'll institute it at the other Legal locations. My suggestion: Make it happen, because it's a winner! From the fresh fruit parfait with yogurt and granola, we moved on to the lobster, goat cheese and chive omelet -- large chunks of lobster in a frittata-like dish that was mouth-watering and delicious. The brioche French toast (it's the only way) with homemade Vermont syrup accompanied by fresh fruit was exceptional and you'll go ga ga over the unique Kona coffee, French pressed, (it serves up to 4) -- it was so good we ordered a second pot. Where else can you get 100% Kona coffee at regular coffee prices? There are eight different choices on the menu, with sides and beverages of your choice. And sitting outside on the patio on a a beautiful summer's day - there's nothing better. I'm spreading the word...it's a secret no more. Go and make your next Sunday Brunch experience extra special!
Legal Sea Foods/ Charles Square
(617) 491-9400

OM
This attractive eatery on JFK St. (opposite the park and what was Grendel's Den ) is becoming a hang-out not only for the Harvard College crowd, but for diners looking for creative and and tasty dishes. The two-story setting with the cocktail lounge on the first floor, the restaurant on the second is decorated with flair.
As you enter you're faced with a moving water wall. Combining American and Asian tastes requires a knowledgeable chef, and in Rachel Klein, the owners of OM have found the right one. Some of her combinations are a little outside the box, but most of them work well. For the first course, the tuna tartare will amaze your taste sensibilities with its combination of chili-lime vinaigrette, pomegranate, pine nuts and ginger gelee served with a shot glass of hibiscus tea. A Caesar salad, unlike any you've had before, combines romaine, white anchovies, soft poached egg, parmesan asparagus and fingerling potatoes. Talk about creative.
The entrees also push the envelope. "Steak and eggs" is Klein's signature dish. Grilled filet mignon topped with a poached and deep fried egg. The yolk is designed to flow over the steak and onto a mound of mashed potatoes. The "Duet of pork" includes the regular sliced grilled pork along side braised pork belly with sweet and sour cabbage and Chinese hot mustard and frites. Be adventurous and go to OM for a new dining experience. Full bar, Sunday brunch, and valet parking.
OM
57 JFK St. ( Harvard Square), Cambridge.
(617) 576-2800

Craigie Street Bistrot
I've discovered a hidden gem in Cambridge, not too far from Harvard Square in a residential neighborhood, a cozy little boite that provides great food at reasonable prices. Chef/owner Tony Maws has tunrned this tiny downstairs space into a winner. (Two previous restaurants didn't make it in this space.) The only drawback -- parking. There are only four spaces assigned to the resaurant in Craigie Circle (and they're usually taken), so you either get there on foot or take a chance at parking somewhere on the street. But however you get there, it's worth the trip. The seasonally-based cuisine is amazingly good, and the service is warm and friendly. Maws changes the menu frequently and his creative dishes whether seafood or meat will please the most demanding palate. Wine and beer only. Open Wednesday - Sunday. You'll have an exquiste dining experience, and it won't put much of a dent in your pocketbook.
Craigie Street Bistrot
5 Craigie Circle, Cambridge
(617) 497-5511

Upstairs on the Square
It didn't take Upstairs at the Pudding proprietors Mary-Catherine Deibel and Deborah Hughes long to find another space, after they had to give up their 20 year lease at their popular Holyoke Street location. Just a block away in the former Grendel's Den, they have given birth to really two dining spots in this quaint brick building. They have come up with two distinct areas under the same roof. Downstairs is the more casual Monday Club Bar for more casual dining, with colorful designs, pink ceiling, purple and gold floors, and upstairs, the more formal Soiree Room, with its mirrored ceiling and leopard print floor. The decor defies tradition and sets it apart from other restaurants of this caliber. Whether you go for the more formal dining experience upstairs, or the more casual downstairs, you'll like the Pudding experience. The food is still their prime concern, and you'll find some traditional favorites as well as some new creations on the menu. Mary-Catherine and Deborah have given Harvard Square something to shout about...and I'm on the line cheering for them all the way.
Upstairs on the Square
91 Winthrop St., Cambridge
(617) 864-1933

Oleana
It's a cut above your favorite neighborhood eatery, and Oleana's chef-owner Ann Sortun (formerly of Casablanca) has created the ambience and creative menu that keeps this Cambridge boite one of the area's busiest and most popular spots. She's taken Middle Eastern delicacies and given them her own personal flair -warm briny olives or tasty pate made of beans and walnuts, fried mussels with hot peppers and a tart Turkish sauce. For entrees try the roasted bluefish or monkfish with lemon and artichokes -- there's lots of exotic fare from which to choose. The menu changes with the season, as does the ambience. In warm weather you can dine on the cozy patio, when it's colder, ask for a table near the gas fireplace to set a nice romantic mood. Service is friendly and fast and there's a full bar. This is definitely one of "Frank's Favorites." Reservations are suggested, for it does get crowded, especially on weekends.
Oleana
134 Hampshire St.
Cambridge, MA
(617) 661-0505

Evoo
Here's a neighborhood restaurant that stretches the bar for the Cambridge/ Somerville crowd (it's right on the border), so now members of the artsy hip crowd that live nearby have a first-class dining establishment that chef owner Peter McCarthy has transformed into a winner. The crowds keep comin'. The talented McCarthy (formerly with Seasons at the Bostonian Hotel) takes ethnic staples and dresses them up to a savory delight. Evoo, by the bye, stands for extra virgin olive oil, and it's brought to the table almost before you're seated. For starters, try the cornmeal fried oysters with goat cheese fondue and apple-bacon salsa. It's a dish to devour. The risotto with porcini mushrooms served in an acorn squash was another wise choice. Their carmelized onion soup, they tell me, takes two days to get it right. The menu listings are many and so intriguingly described, you'll have a hard time choosing. Don't forget dessert. I'd recommend the "Better than Grandma's" apple crisp topped with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. There are daily specials aside from the regular menu. This is definitely a restaurant I wish I had in my neighborhood.
Evoo
118 Beacon Street
Somerville, MA
(617) 661-3866

The Harvest: Newly-reopened on Brattle Street in Cambridge, the Harvest has gone through several ownership changes, and has had its ups and downs. It was always one of my favorites in the Cambridge area. Redesigned with attractive materials like Travertine marble, red slate and stained maple floors with attractive drapes and cozy banquettes, it's warm and inviting. Not only does the atmosphere make dining a joy, but a team of top players has been assembled to make sure the food is bountiful, tasty and served with panache. Executive chef Eric Brennan is now in charge, and his innovative cuisine has kept the place hoppin'. The glory days of the old Harvest, when food was tasty and artfully presented, have returned, and so have the crowds. The menu features over 20 appetizers (the lobster salad was suburb), and for entrees, try the seared sea scallops with foie gras. The steak selection is perfect, and the garlicky game hen is worth a shot. Leave room for dessert -- the warm chocolate cake (like a souffle with a crust) melts in your mouth! They are open for lunch and dinner and Sunday brunch as well as late afternoon tea. Tucked away in the alley off Brattle Street, the Harvest is back in full swing, and all's right with the world. Bon Appetit!
The Harvest Restaurant
44 Brattle St., Cambridge,
(617) 868-2255

Finale Desserterie
The second of Kim Moore's unique concept for a restaurant has been open a few months in its Harvard Square, Cambridge location and already has been getting great reaction from the college crowds who crave the chocolate treats -- sticky carmel nut bars, gelatos, cookies and melt-in-your-mouth chocolate treats (one of my favorites is the blood orange-white chocolate layer cake). As in their Park Square location, sandwiches, soups, and salads as well as other light lunch and dinner fare are available. They're looking to build a "finale" empire, and it could be happening as we speak!
Finale
30 Dunster St.
Cambridge, MA
(617) 441-9797

Salts
If you're looking for an intimate dining experience where the food is prepared with loving care and the service takes its cue from the chef-owner, this 45-seat jewel right off Central Square in Cambridge should be your next dining destination. Salt historically has been a symbol of hospitality, and the talented young chef Steve Rosen and his charming hostess/wife Lisa have taken hospitality to the hilt with their warm and gracious style. Make sure to try his signature dishes of smoked salmon sausage and melt-in-your-mouth chive pierogis. Rosen works his culinary magic with crisp duckling, lavender glazed with rhubarb preserves, and an unusual dish: rosemary and black tea smoked lamb slices with sweet pepper salad and baked garlic vareniki. The menu won't overwhelm you. There are some five or six appetizers, seven or eight entrees. The desserts add the final touch of originality and superb taste combinations. My favorite was the jasmine tea sorbet, or the chocolate crunchy cookie filled with coconut. For those who have tried this tiny gastronomical jewel, and are attempting to keep it to themselves, forget it! I'm letting the cat out of the bag.
Salts
798 Main St., Cambridge
(617) 876-8444

Temple Bar
Nestled between Harvard and Porter Squares on Mass. Ave. is a new pub that has some unusual architectural features and sports a very active bar area. It's a warm and friendly neighborhood eatery that is fast becoming THE place to meet and greet. The menu offers a wide choice from burgers, pizza, and pasta to elaborate entrees. With friendly service and atmosphere, it's a lively place. It's been open about 6 months, and already seems to be developing a steady clientele. Parking can be a problem, but. like most of Mass. Ave., if you're patient and lucky, you're bound to find a spot. Open for lunch and dinner.
Temple Bar
1688 Mass Ave., Cambridge
(617) 547-5055

Brookline/Brighton

Zenna Noodle Bar
Now open for about six months, this newest Asian eatery is located on Beacon Street, not far from busy Coolidge Corner. Its bright decor with array of fresh orchids is very welcoming. If the attractive owner Tiam is not cooking in the kitchen, she's there to greet you warmly. Daily specials and choice dishes including chicken satay and spring rolls -- the tastiest I've had in a long time. Rainbow noodles, a unique dish of Italian linguine sauteed with chicken shrimp and vegetables, and their unique version of pad thai are both worthwhile choices. Some of the dishes are ample enough for sharing, and the friendly wait staff is there to help you make wise selections..
There are a plethora of Asian restaurants in the Brookline area, but Zenna's tops the list in my book for overall presentation, taste and affordability.
Zenna Noodle Bar
1374 Beacon Street
(617) 566-566

Lineage
Chef/owner Jeremy Sewall (formerly with Great Bay) has gone back to his roots in Brookline in the space previously occupied by Lucy's in busy Coolidge Corner. The restaurant's name pays homage to Sewall's ancestors who were big wheels in Brookline (Sewall Avenue was named for them, not Jeremy). Open not quite a month, the 75-seat restaurant has a warm, neighborly feel to it with the large woodburning oven behind the bar opposite the entrance. The modern American style cooking which Sewall has mastered is evident right from the start. For appetizers there are a dozen choices -- The tuna tartare with sesame, chive, cucumber and red onion was an excellent beginning, while the six island oysters was another wise choice. We even found room to share a thin pizza with potato, crimini mushroom and truffle oil. There's a wide variety of entrees. Sewall's signature dish is the Pork Porterhouse with organic white grits. The Long Island Duck breast served over risotto cake and carrot onion relish was crisp and tender. I opted for the wild king salmon, cooked to perfection and accompanied with toasted orzo, cauliflower and baby gold beets.. If you're still hungry, there are some simple desserts to top off your meal. There's a full bar as well. They're open every day but Monday and brunch is also available Sunday mornings. The wait staff is cordial and knowledgeable and. it's a fee-good, comfortable dining experience. Things are looking rosy for this newest kid on the block.
Lineage
242 Harvard St.
(617) 232-0065

Jasmine Bistro
This little neighborhood jewel nestled right in the heart of busy Brighton Square is "one stop shopping" for those searching for varied and classic, ethnic-styled dishes. You can return again and again and enjoy a different style meal. There are five styles from which to choose -- Near East, Middle Eastern (lamb and chicken kabobs and rice) Mediterranean (cucumber and onion salad), French (beef Bourguignon or chateaubriand) or Hungarian (Wiener schnitzel or beef stroganoff). With appetizers (escargot) and salads (hearts of palm) plus desserts freshly baked on the premises (orange and chocolate or cherry meringue mousse, apple strudel), this cozy family-run restaurant has something for every taste. There are daily specials -- we tried the mixture of 4 different mushrooms and vegetables grilled and accompanied with a tasty sauce. Mom and dad are cooking in the open kitchen while the sons Roy and Ray serve and make you feel like you're one of the family. They both have the gift of gab. No full bar, but wine and beer are available. Dinner only. Suggestion: Instead of serving ordinary toasted bread, "nam" would be more in keeping with the international-styled menu. They must be doing something right, for their "regulars" keep coming back again and again.
Jasmine Bistro
412 Market Street, Brighton, MA
(617) 789-4676

The Washington Square Tavern
Within a one-block area in the vicinity of Beacon and Washington Streets in Brookline, so many fun and interesting eating places have sprouted, and it's become a diner's paradise. This one has been open only 5 months and is already building quite a following. With Chef Paul Hathaway in the kitchen, this small (seats about 40) neighborhood pub with old-fashioned ambience features new-fashioned fusion food. Chef Hathaway has some fine credentials, from Blue Room, to Pomodora, to Michelas, and most recently to the now-shuttered Providence. This new dining spot is an American melting pot. For starters we savored the crispy chicken livers with carmelized onions and balsamic syrup (superb!). The salads are inventive and savory. I loved the watercress salad with roasted walnuts and gorgonzola. My entree of pan-seared cod with a succulent lobster sauce raised an ordinary cod to a lobster Savannah level. You can find fish, steak, pork chops, duck, and even vegetarian. There's a varied winter menu with daily specials, and the prices won't make a major dent in your wallet. They have a full bar and a fairly extensive wine list. No reservations. It's your friendly neighborhood pub with a gourmet flourish, and it's a find.
The Washington Square Tavern
714 Washington (corner of Beacon) Brookline, 02146
(617) 232-8989

The Fireplace
The former "Five Seasons" vegetarian restaurant occupying the corner space at Beacon and Washington streets in Brookline has re-emerged with new owners, new menu, and an attractive facelift including a working fireplace that creates a cozy warm atmosphere. The two level restaurant features an open hearth and grill, some antique kitchen utensils attractively mounted on the walls along with Will Moses prints. This grill and barbecue-style menu features a wide selection, and according to chef/owner Jim Solomon, "it's rustic native New England cooking." Simple, yet elegant. And there's a full bar and wine list Our sampling of the barbecued half chicken was tender and tasty, the wood-grilled bluefish was sweet and succulent, a mussels appetizer was ample and our group couldn't get enough of the side dishes we sampled, the maple sweet potato mash and the crispy, lightly battered onion rings. The fresh blueberry tart with ginger ice cream topped off the meal nicely. . There is a very warm and friendly atmosphere, from the host right down to the wait staff.-- a welcome addition to the Beacon/Washington area of Brookline that has become its own "restaurant row." (Particularly popular is the Washington Grill across the street.) Ample parking is available on the street, or behind the restaurant. It's only been open less than a month, but the word apparently is out. When we left, there was a line waiting for a table. I suggest you make reservations, since the price and atmosphere will make this one a very popular dining destination.

Finale Photo

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