Frank Avruch: Boston's Man About Town

 

Greater Boston Restaurants 2

Newton/Waltham

The Biltmore
Newton is becoming home to another gourmet restaurant. Rebecca Roth took over the a former local hangout and has created a "gastropub," a British term for " a public house that specializes in high quality food, a step above the more basic pub grub."
And in the four months that it has been open, the small restaurant has built a big following. On a recent visit, we had a chance to try the baked ricotta bread and a tangy tasty gazpacho soup along with a generous serving of fresh heirloom tomatoes with a savory dressing. There are specials every day.That night the grilled swordfish was the winner! Comfort food takes on a new dimension at the Biltmore with its crispy fish and chips, burgers, meat loaf and a melt in your mouth John Dewar selected steak. They offer an outstanding variety of salads, particularly the Greek salad. There's a full bar and parking is available on the street and behind the restaurant. The servers are not only warm and friendly, but very knowledgeable. This is not your ordinary neighborhood restaurant, and is a major find. They don't take reservations, so good luck.
The Biltmore, 1205 Chestnut St., Newton
(617) 527-2550

Tartufo
It's been around for over a year, and with the proliferation of so many restaurants not only in Boston, but in the suburbs, how did I miss this gem? Tartufo is a little bit of Abruzzi right in my own backyard. Tucked away on the slight slope at the corner of Beacon St and Langley Rd in Newton Centre, its twinkling window lights beckon you inside to savor authentic, creative Italian dishes. Animated, gregarious owner /chef Dante Bellucci not only works his magic in the kitchen, but is out greeting diners, along with his vivacious manager / partner Anna. Dante takes pride in the fact that everything is bought fresh daily--meats, fish, vegetables, all organic ingredients. The tasty, crusty bread is baked fresh daily and is wonderful. Dante's Abruzzi background has created some authentic recipes -- familiar dishes that will take you back to the old country along with daily specials. We particularly enjoyed the flavorful Prince Edward Island mussels, the tender Veal scalloppini topped with mushrooms and a white wine and lemon sauce. There's a magnificent anti pasti,and a wide choice of pastas, along with a full bar and extensive wine list including Montipulciano wines and delectable desserts. Apparently Tartufo has found a huge following; reservations are suggested. This 7 day a week dining spot was filled the night we were there and has become a hugely popular destination for those craving authentic Italian cuisine. For me, it was a late discovery, but be assured I'll be back very soon.
Tartufo
22 Union St, Newton Centre
(617) 244-8833

Tempo
Add another welcome addition to the burgeoning restaurant scene in suburban Waltham. Serving contemporary American fare, this former automotive parts store has been transformed into an attractive dining spot. Open only a few short months, it's becoming a favorite of discerning diners looking for good food, attractive surroundings and easy-on-the-pocketbook prices. With its dark wood tables and leather seating, it's open for lunch and dinner and it's one of the few spots that offer music with your meals -- live jazz is scheduled Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Executive chef Peter Kuplast has come up with a varied and attractive menu. Highlights include the grilled skirt steak salad (mixed greens, roasted peppers, tomatoes, carmelized onions, gorgonzola balsamic dressing). A meal in itself is their Kobe beef burger (applewood smoked bacon, mushrooms, carmelized onion, cheddar). For more gourmet dining, begin with tasty jumbo lump crab cakes. For entrees, try the flavorful, crispy skinned wild salmon served over polenta, pan seared duck breast, or pan roasted spicy lobster. You'll love their unusual onion rings, made from a secret recipe imported from Bermuda.
The wait staff is knowledgeable and more than friendly, and there's a full bar and a fairly extensive wine list. Waltham 's fine dining scene can only be enhanced by the addition of this newest Moody Street bistro.
Tempo
474 Moody Street, Waltham
(781) 891-9000

Pie Bakery and Cafe
Ellen and PaigeSomething a little out of the ordinary opened recently in Newton Centre. Pastry chef Paige Retus and owner Ellen Kaplansky have taken over this small space and created a casual bustling little pie shop. And they have more than just desserts -- besides all types of pies, cakes and cookies, they have comfort food, sandwiches, etc. for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They're open until 8. It's not too comfortable for large parties, with some half dozen tables and seats at the counter facing the open kitchen. Don't pass up tasting the chocolate chip cookies...crisp and chewy. Pies a little pricey, but they were flying out the door.
Pie Bakery and Cafe
796 Beacon Street (off Center St. ), Newton
(617) 332-8743

Ariadne
Suburban Newton seems to have cornered the market on trendy upscale dining, with some half dozen restaurants that boast some of the best dining around -- Lumiere, Aquitaine, Le Soir, to name just a few. Now we have to add Ariadne to the list. Since its debut some months back, Christos Tsardounis and his wife Kathy have brought panache and inventive menus to this corner Newton storefront that has been tastefully transformed into a very sophisticated restaurant and bar. For a while they were running two restaurants -- Aspasia in Cambridge and this one, but they wisely decided to close Aspasia and concentrate on the Newtonville location. And with all their attention they have built up quite a following, not only of locals who are delighted to have them in their midst, but fans from far and wide who have followed them for a long time. It's contemporary cuisine, with Mediterranean flair, and the menu changes regularly. Ariadne is open for lunch and dinner and Sunday brunch, and within this very luxurious atmosphere, you can dine on a wide variety of items, including butternut squash soup, a boneless Red Snapper, bountiful salads with artichokes and parmesan shavings, seafood paella, and on an on. The desserts are special and the French press individual coffee carafes add a nice touch as well. They've also recently added a prix fixe dinner (Mon-Thurs) -- a 3-course meal with wine for a bit over $30. How can you go wrong? Full bar and parking in back of the restaurant.
Ariadne
344 Walnut St., Newton, MA
(617) 332-4653

Baker's Best
This classy Newton Highlands charcuterie has been a mainstay of the neighborhood since it wowed them with its hole-in-the-wall storefront for take-out some years ago. A couple of years ago, they moved across the street and now have emerged as one of the most popular and busiest eateries in the garden city. They've doubled their space, and thanks to the vision of owner Michael Baker, they not only do take-out and catering, but serve lunch and dinner in a very cozy, pleasant atmosphere. It's the place to meet and greet in the city. Their creative and always-fresh foods attract regulars for lunch who go for their gourmet sandwiches (you can't beat their fresh sliced turkey or tuna sandwiches). From pizzas, to sandwiches, to pan-seared tuna or peppercorn crusted tenderloin with pear-cranberry chutney, it can be simple or sophisticated, depending on what you're in the mood for. Their variety of desserts isn't too tough to take either. They also do a dynamite Sunday brunch with challah French toast, blueberry pancakes or western omelets on the menu. Baker's Best is not your ordinary charcuterie. One visit to this Newton "hood" to sit in or take out, and it will become a favorite destination.
Bakers' Best
27 Lincoln Street, Newton Highlands
(617) 332-4588

Campania
A short drive from Boston is the city of Waltham (approximately ten miles northwest). Once famous as "The Watch City," it is now home to some of the finest and most varied dining around. The Maione family's tiny "trattoria" has the feel and flavor of Italy, and it is truly a family affair. Two sons, John and David, work the open grill-like kitchen, Mama Josephine lovingly creates the homemade pastas (the gnocchi and manicotti are flavorful and superb and bread is made from scratch in a wood burning oven on the premises), and Papa Giovanni serves as affable host. If you're looking for authentic, homemade Italian, you've found a little bit of Sorrento on Main street in Waltham. Open for lunch (11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.) and dinner (5-10 p.m.). Closed Mondays. The only downside is there can be a wait. Reservations for 6 or more only.
Campania
504 Main St., Waltham
(781) 894-4280

Lumiere
One of the newest entries in the Hub's burgeoning restaurant scene is this small bistro tucked away on Washington Street in Newton. A former "Brigham's Ice Cream" parlor, the transformation is astounding. Walk in and you're greeted by the effervescent Jill Leviton, wife/manager, whose infectious smile and warmth sets the proper tone. You're in a swank swinging New York bistro with soothing off-white walls, cozy booths and tables, and gauze-like floating material decorating the windows and ceiling. Smooth jazz sounds waft in the background. Chef/owner is Michael Leviton, whose apprenticeships at San Francisco's Square One and New York's Le Cirque have given him the culinary expertise to take the plunge on his own. This is "his baby," and like a proud papa, he's thrilled with his newest offspring. You don't have to plod through an extensive menu (it's limited to half a dozen appetizers and entrees) and the menu changes often. (Obviously , they're hoping to build up a steady clientele.) On a recent visit we sampled the vegetarian entree with melt in your mouth potato dumplings, braised lamb shank (yes, the meat falls off the bone), and roasted cod in a delectable wine-laced fish stock that I couldn't leave before I sopped it up with the crusty French bread . . . each dish prepared to perfection. Desserts are extraordinary culinary creations: lemon/ lime napoleon, phyllo dough circled with layers of lemon and lime mousse, or a carmelized apple tart topped with creme fraiche. Lady luck seems to have smiled on the Levitons! Vive la Lumiere!
Lumiere
1293 Washington St. (opp. West Newton Cinema)
West, Newton, MA
(617) 244-9199

Sweet Basil
Tucked into a small storefront on Great Plain Avenue in Needham, this is the second location for chef Paul Booras (his other Needham restaurant, also tiny, is "Fava"). We chanced on this storefront after being told by friends that it is a find. And indeed it was. It's simple Italian fare, all cooked to order from pasta dishes to the delicious veal Marsala, tender and served with sweet portobello mushrooms. That was my choice. I love garlic, so I didn't mind that the chef went a bit heavy on it. Special dishes are offered daily, and if you don't mind certain inconveniences (no liquor or wine to accompany your meal, no desserts or coffee) and can adjust, you're in for a different dining experience with some of the freshest, tastiest Italian-style dishes. You can bring your own wine ($5 corkage charge). By the way, there are no reservations either, so if you get there after 6 p.m., prepare to wait OUTSIDE. There's no room inside. As someone suggested, it might be good idea to get take out -- which they do have -- and then you can eat in more comfortable surroundings. They must be doing something right, because they're crowded every night, which has to tell you something. Open for lunch (11-2) and dinner (5 -10) Tuesday thru Saturday.
Sweet Basil
842 Great Plain Avenue, Needham
(781) 444-9600

Campo De Fiori
For simple, authentic Italian fare, eaten family style or take out, you'll find this tiny cafeteria-style eatery fun and extremely authentic. It's set in a small shopping center in Weston (off Rte. 20) and the square, thin crusted pizzas are scrumptious and easy to choose as you see them on display end to end with names like "Milano, Napoli, and Messina." They offer salads, sandwiches and hot dishes as well as pasta and home made stews. They are open for breakfast as well with eggs, fruit, Italian donuts and, of course, all kinds of Italian-style coffee. And the best part -- the prices are very, very reasonable. Their Cambridge spot in Holyoke Center is doing well, and now they've moved to the suburbs. Hours: 8-8 Mon - Fri, 9-8 Sat. Closed Sundays. Whenever you need a fast Italian fix, this is it.
Campo de Fiori
37 Center St.,Weston
(781) 893-6135

Il Capriccio
It's taken us a while to pay a visit to the much-heralded Italian gourmet eatery tucked away in Waltham on heavily trafficked Main St. Having heard so much about it, I finally managed to schedule a visit. This is not your ordinary neighborhood eatery. It's fine dining in a very elegant and romantic setting. From appetizers (you won't believe the melt-in-your-mouth porcini mushroom souffle) and if nothing else you have to try the succulent lasagna, unlike any you have tasted before, light, bursting with flavor -- even mama's can't compare! They have a varied menu that should satisfy the most discriminating gourmand. The menu changes monthly and the wine list is most impressive. Why it's taken me so long to discover this truly elegant dining experience, I'll never know. But if I may borrow a famous general's phrase, "I shall return!"
Il Capriccio
888 Main St., Waltham
(781) 894-2234

51 Lincoln
In the Newton Highlands space formerly occupied by the upscale "Le Soir", owner-chef Jeff Fournier, after a successful stint at Chestnut Hill's "Metropolitan," has put his own personal stamp on this chic bistro. His very own large, colorful abstracts adorn the wall. The menu combines contemporary American with an international flair. On a recent visit, highlights included crispy skate wing with capers and a delicious brown butter sauce. Most unusual was the pan-seared watermelon with eggplant chicharrones -- surprisingly delicious! Fournier has a way with pastas and his famous rigatoni bolognaise was outstanding. Although the menu varies weekly, you'll be lucky if his five-spice duck breast is on the list. It's crispy and delightful with an accompaniment of bok choy stir fry and sesame rice cakes. The home-made ice cream and pies seemed too ordinary after such culinary delights, so we passed over them. The move to suburbia for some of our talented chefs continues, and this newest addition is a worthy contender.
51 Lincoln
51 Lincoln St, Newton Highlands
(617) 965-3100

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