Trips/Travel

Boston is a "walking city" and I've listed a few places to visit, as well as some fun day trips, and some of the places I've visited and highly recommend. Let's begin by exploring the city of Boston itself, and what beter way to begin then with The famous Freedom Trail!

For visitors to Boston who are interested in history, there is no better living history than a walk along Boston's famed Freedom Trail. Now 40 years old, tourists flock to this 2.5 mile walking trail, whose red bricks curve from the Boston Common through downtown to the North End before looping through Charlestown. Some 16 historic sites (including Paul Revere's House, the oldest burying ground in the nation, King's Chapel, and USS Constitution, the world's oldest commissioned warship) will keep you ogling for a half day to really do it justice, but you can walk it non-stop in just over an hour. New signs and a spruced-up pathway make it easy to do it without guides, however there are guided tours daily from 10-3 (through September 6) that leave on the hour from 15 State Street. Information and maps are available at the Visitor Center on Boston Common. If you're into American history, there is no better way to experience it then walking through and around the sites that date back to 1630.
The Freedom Trail
(617) 426-3115

Beacon Hill is Old Boston, and probably the most celebrated neighborhood of the city. Walking its narrow streets, with its Greek revival or Federal style houses, some with bowfronts, the street lit with gas lamps, its cobblestone paths, you'll think you were in merry old England. And it should be seen on foot so you can take your time exploring the stately homes on Chestnut and Pinckney Streets, some designed by famous architect Charles Bullfinch. Once the bastion for the Boston Brahmins, it is still one of the Hub's most elegant residential areas. Take time to walk up cobblestone and skinny Acorn Street. It's a little gem nestled in the heart of the Hill. And probably the most famous area -- Louisburg Square with its row of red brick houses and the oval park they overlook. This is the pinnacle of fashionable Boston addresses. Its 22 so-called proprietors or homeowners have practically no responsibility to their city at all, own the entire square outright, and meet annually to tax themselves for the upkeep of their private park and the care of their street. This is where Louisa May Alcott wrote her classic novels and where the legendary P.T. Barnum protégé Jenny Lind married her accompanist. If you are fortunate to visit during the Christmas season, lights and carols will have you convinced you're back in Charles Dicken's day And remember it is Lou-IS-burg. You'll horrify locals if you pronounce it Louie-burg!

Boston's historic Old North Church
Built in 1723, this is Boston's oldest church building, a beautiful example of Georgian architecture. Old North Church is most famous for its role in the beginning of the Revolutionary War. Two warning lanterns hung in the church steeple on April 15, 1775. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's poem, The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere, published during the Civil War, made both Revere and Old North Church internationally known icons of freedom. The church is still an active Episcopal Church. The church and museum are open daily except Thanksgiving and Christmas. No admission for the basic church tour.

Boston Public Library - oldest in the country
Largely unknown is the vast collection of art housed in this landmark building -- works by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, John Singleton Copley, Winslow Homer, John James Audubon, Rembrandt, Picasso, and Tousouse-Lautrec. Don't miss the historic murals by Sargent depicting his series on "Judaism and Christianity," which he himself considered one of his greatest achievements. On the same floor in an anteroom, is a little-known memorial to the famed anarchists Sacco and Vanzetti. After you view the art and the various displays, head for the center of the Boston Public Library's Old Wing and discover one of my favorite hideaways, the recently-renovated Atrium, a classic urban oasis, a place to sit and read and just dream amidst this Italian Renaissance atmosphere . . . the plants and flowers in the area are a volunteer project of the Back Bay Garden Club.
There are free tours beginning at the Dartmouth St. lobby Sundays at 2, Mondays at 2:30 Tuesdays and Thursdays at 6 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays at 11 a.m.
Boston Public Library, 666 Boylston St., enter at Dartmouth St., Boston
(617) 536-5400

The Boston Athenaeum
Enlarged and rebuilt in 1913, this National Historic Landmark is a little-known jewel tucked away at the top of Beacon Street in Boston, a few steps from the State House. It's a private library (only 1049 ownership shares exist) founded in 1907, and this treasure-trove of books - including George Washington's library collection and authentic Confederate imprints - are just some of the treasures to explore. It's an ideal spot for musing and browsing. The nooks and crannies, including a charmingly hand-painted elevator, are of another era. Tours are available on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Reservations required. Hours are M-F 9 a.m. - 5:30 p.m., Saturday, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. Closed in August.
The Boston Athenaeum
10-1/2 Beacon St, Boston
(617) 227-0270

Two scenic romantic strolls through the city
#1
Begin at the Commonwealth Avenue mall at Gloucester Street and amble toward the Public Garden. The mall with its greenery, statues, and brownstone architecture on both sides is solace for the eyes. Cross Arlington Street into the Public Garden, filled with flowers, trees and crisscrossing paths. Head to the suspension bridge overlooking the lagoon and watch the swan boats glide by. Across Charles Street, take the path in Boston Common that parallels Beacon Street. Notice the parade of "ducks" from the children's classic "Make Way For Ducklings." It is here, with Ralph Waldo Emerson, that the poet Walt Whitman walked and discussed the controversy surrounding his "erotic" book "Leaves of Grass." Head into Beacon Hill via Joy street. Follow Mt. Vernon Street to the green, serene and historic Louisburg Square, one of the priciest pieces of real estate in all of the city. Return to Charles Street at the bottom of the hill and end your walk browsing through the endless array of shops, a haven for antique and art lovers..

#2
Begin at the Boston Community Sailing facility along Storrow Drive (next to the Charles River). As you walk you will get the quintessential view of the Charles, complete with heeling sailboats and solitary scullers. Follow the river to the Hatch Shell, where you can rest on the grass and watch the sun set along the Esplanade. In summer there should be concerts to enjoy. Cross the river via the Longfellow Bridge for a gorgeous view of the city. If you're not too tired, loop around the river on the Cambridge side, past MIT. If you have time you may want to detour and check out the campus filled with outstanding sculpture -- monumental and smaller pieces ranging from Alexander Calder's "La Grande Voile" (The big sail) in front of the Green Earth Sciences Building to Jacques Lipchitz (5 cubist bronzes in the Hayden Library courtyard) to the Henry Moore reclining figures in Kilian Court. Return to Memorial Drive and walk the Mass. Ave. Bridge, cross Beacon Street and Commonwealth Avenue and turn left on Newbury Street, Boston's answer to "Fifth Avenue," a mecca for shops, galleries and restaurants.

 

The Arnold Arboretum
In the Jamaica Plain neighborhood of the city (accessible by the "T" Orange Line at Forest Hills Station) lies this forest oasis, a 265-acre paradise for naturalisms, botanists and horticulturists, not to mention poets, painters, photographers and folks "who think they shall never see a poem as lovely as a tree." Operated by Harvard University, it was designed by landscape architect-urban planner Frederick Law Olmsted and educator-botanist Charles Sprague Sargent. The Arboretum is a place of uncommon beauty. You can admire the "living collection" of rare trees, including one of the three greatest lilac collections in North America (over 600). Guided or self-guided tours are available. Open from dusk to dawn. And the cost is right. It's free.
(617) 524-1711

A few miles northwest of Cambridge on Route 2A are Lexington and Concord, two historic towns that must be visited, especially if this is your first time in the area. This is where the American Revolution began, and Concord grapes were first cultivated here, as were the ideas of Emerson, Hawthorne, Thoreau and Louisa May Alcott. There's a Visitor's Center that will supply you with maps and pertinent details for your daytime excursion, but my favorite spots include the North Bridge, where Daniel Chester French's famous "Minuteman" statue stands guard, and in Concord, Walden Pond, located along Route 126. Now a National Historic Landmark, it was made famous by the free-thinking philosopher and poet, Henry David Thoreau, who lived and wrote among all this bucolic splendor. It tends to get overcrowded in the summer, but fall and winter are ideal times to visit and bask in the quiet of nature in its gentle, seasonal splendor.

North Shore
North of Boston along Route 1, an interesting day trip will take you to the Witch City of Salem, a visit to Nathaniel Hawthorne's House of Seven Gables, the Molly Pitcher House and historic Abbot Hall, which houses the original painting of "The Spirit Of '76," some stately historic colonial houses, and the Peabody Museum, which has expanded through the years to a wonderful maritime museum.

Further north on Route 127, drive through Beverly Farms, Manchester and Magnolia to Cape Ann and more dramatic vistas of the wave-swept coastline. And don't miss Gloucester, the nation's oldest fishing city (1623), and Rocky Neck, one of my favorite spots. After that it's on to Rockport, Cape Ann's picturesque summertime art colony with budding artists putting paint to canvas, gift shops, and quaint restaurants and tea rooms.

"Cape Ann Getaway: Gloucester and Rockport
About 30 miles north of Boston is a day trip filled with history and art well worth your time.
One of the most picturesque spots on Boston's North Shore is this fabled New England fishing and artist mecca. Fishing and lobster boats dot the harbor -- fishing still is the mainstay of many families there, and it was here that the best-selling novel "The Perfect Storm" was filmed. It's also filled with history and sea-going folklore. There's a sculpture on the hill outside of the historic gray stone house of Gloucester's favorite son, Fitz Hugh Lane, the 19th century artist who painted accurate portraits of ships as well as the equally-famous statue, "Man at the Wheel," Leonard Clarke's creation on Western Avenue facing Gloucester Harbor. Beaches also beckon. Rockport's Long Beach (off Thatcher Road), Pebble Beach (end of South Street) and Front and Back Beaches (on Beach Street between Maine and Granite). Stage Fort Park (at Hough and Western Avenues) is Gloucester's major public recreation area with two beaches, tennis, hiking, and picnicking. Whale watching tours from picturesque Gloucester Harbor are always popular, and the Rocky Neck art colony in Gloucester is one of the oldest working artists colonies in the nation.

Neighboring Rockport is another colorful artist destination. Aside from its constantly photographed and painted lobster shacks, particularly the red fishing warehouse known as "Motif #1" on Bearskin Neck, this is an area with more galleries, antique and gift shops and dining spots than you'll find anywhere in the nation. In Rockport's Pigeon Cove is the unique "Paper House" (open daily July and August, other times by appointment: 508-546-2629). Created by Swedish immigrant Elis Stenman between 1922 and 1942, the house is indeed made of newspaper. So are the chairs, lamps, tables, piano and the grandfather clock. In total, about 100,000 newspapers were used in constructing the home and the furnishings You may want to extend your stay, since there is so much to see and do.

 

Old Sturbridge Village makes for great family day trip
Just about one hour's drive west from Boston on the Mass Pike, is Sturbridge Village, a typical village from the 1830's that has been recreated on some 200 acres. There are over 40 exhibits and demonstrations by folks all attired in 19th century garb. It's what a rural village would look like at that time, including a general store, a shoe shop, printing house, cider mill and several restored homes. Plan to spend the day -- there's so much to see and do. You can take a break for lunch or dinner at the Bullard Tavern where they serve traditional American fare.
From now until March 31, hours are Monday - Friday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and some weekends. Admission is $16 adults, $8 children, free for those under 6. For more information, check their Web site at www.osv.org or call (508) 347-3362.

Berkshire Getaway -- A summertime treat and an easy two-hour drive along the Mass Pike from Boston will bring you into the western part of Massachusetts filled with tranquil beauty and history.
A recent trip brought me to Lenox, home of the Boston Symphony and a concert at Tanglewood, a popular destination for music lovers, and very special this time as we bid farewell to the Boston Symphony's long time-conductor Seiji Ozawa. After the concert, we headed south to Great Barrington and checked into one of the many Bed and Breakfast establishments throughout the area. We chose the historic Wainwright Inn, in the heart of downtown on Route 7 (413-528-2062). Innkeepers Marja and Robert Tepper took over the sprawling historic Victorian mansion two years ago and restored it into a charming, warm retreat, filled with unusual antiques. They succeeded in making you feel like you're one of the family. Breakfast is prepared by knowledgeable and friendly host Darryl, a native Great Barringtonian who returned to the area after a stay in Palm Beach. He's a true master of culinary delights, and we enjoyed his lovingly-prepared individual egg souffles with fruit and one morning, French toast served with his own carmelized orange syrup. The breakfasts are formidable.

For other dining in the area, Great Barrington boasts over 70 restaurants, from the very inexpensive to the high end, so there is no chance you'll go hungry. In our short stay we sampled the very hip Castle Street Cafe (American-style menu with nightly jazz accompaniment), and the funky hideaway, The Helsinki Cafe. The Old Mill in nearby Souh Egremont offered us a romantic and historic setting to enjoy extremely well-prepared "comfort food." ( I devoured their calves liver and bacon.)

The piece de resistance has to be the newly renovated Wheatleigh, an expensive European-style inn and restaurant in Lenox. We stopped in for lunch served in "The Library" with a choice of gourmet delights that were highly original. The "lobster roll" was unlike any you've ever tasted, and a highly creative entree was "soup, soup soup soup"-- four different soups served in demi-tasse cups--.carrot, fava bean, fennel and corn. The setting, the service, the ambience--it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The Berkshires, especially in the summer, offers music, theatre, and dance. There's also antiquing, galleries, and the beautiful Berkshire Botanical Garden. So much to see and do. You'll want to go back again and again.

Nashoba Valley -- Great for Wine Tasting and Apple Picking.
September is usually the best time to take this 35-mile scenic drive west along Route 2 through farm and orchard country following in the tradition of Leominster, Mass. native son John Chapman, better known as Johnny Appleseed. Continue west on Route 126, to Route 119 and you'll arrive in the tiny town of Bolton, home of the Nashoba Valley Winery. Open daily from 11-5 with tours and tastings Saturday and Sunday. Then it's time to do a little apple picking right from the trees. The varieties include Gravensteins in late August through Mcintosh, Cortland, Macoun (my favorites), Baldwins, and in early October, Golden Delicious. Nashoba Valley provides pole pickers to reach your prey. Have fun. And don't they taste better when you've picked them yourself?
Nashoba Valley Winery
100 Wattaquadoc Rd., Bolton
(978) 779-5521

New Hampshire Getaway
A week ago some friends took us on a weekend getaway to nearby New Hampshire (about a one-hour drive up Route 93 from Route 95 in Boston). We stopped for lunch en route in Bedford, NH at the Bedford Village Inn. Not only was this a picturesque setting, but the original clapboard house was transformed into a sophisticated yellow clapboard restaurant that was truly gourmet. A few of the items we sampled: Shrimp cocktail with fruit salsa and plantain, duck spring roll with watermelon salsa, home made lavash, and gemelli pasta with black peppered shrimp. We topped it off with their signature dessert, the chocolate bag: mousse, vanilla cake, raspberry coulis and fresh berries, served with caramel straws. We devoured the dessert. And this was just the beginning.

A short drive north (about 30 minutes) brought us to our bed and breakfast destination, The Inn at Maplewood Farm in Hillsborough New Hampshire. This small (only four bedrooms with private bath) is the only bed and breakfast in the world with its own radio station! Each evening on vintage radios either in the living room or in your suite, the programs from the golden age of radio (Suspense, Green Hornet the Lone Ranger . . . you can even make requests) are broadcast. The rooms are well appointed, with a homey touch, and delightful breakfasts. Your genial hosts are Jayme and Laura Simoes, who have been running this inn for 6 years and make you feel welcome and comfortable. I would not hesitate to recommend it.

Maplewood Farm doesn't serve dinner, so our friends had made advance reservations at another historic inn in Hancock, NH (about 30 minute south), The Hancock Inn, New Hampshire's oldest inn built in 1789. Here too, we found delightful old country charm: dinner served by candlelight, and another gourmet meal. Apparently you can find wonderful food even outside of the city; Talented chefs must seek the quiet, less hectic pace of a more rural setting. You can't go wrong by dining at this charming inn, about a 90-minute drive direct from Boston.

Bedford Village Inn, the Inn at Maplewood Farm, and The Hancock Inn. You may not want to pack all three in one day, but you won't go wrong with a summer visit to any one of them. This is an area of New Hampshire that doesn't get too crowded, and offers a respite from the hustle and bustle of crowded city life. Enjoy.
Bedford Village Inn (603) 472-2001
The Inn at Maplewood Farm (603) 464-4242
The Hancock Inn (603) 525-3318